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Black Indonesia food blanket spread across a bed in a warm, softly lit bedroom

Vol. 46 — Bumbu, Sambal and the Archipelago Table

Indonesia

From Sumatra to Sulawesi

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Standfirst

Shallot, garlic and chilli ground to a paste in a stone mortar. Coconut milk reducing until it darkens. A cart bell somewhere down the street at dusk. Indonesia cooks across seventeen thousand islands, and every one of them starts in the same place.

Chapter One

Everything begins with bumbu

Before an Indonesian dish has a name it has a paste. Shallot, garlic, candlenut, turmeric, galangal and chilli are ground together in a stone cobek and fried in hot oil until the raw sharpness burns away and the kitchen fills with something sweet and resinous. That is bumbu, and almost everything follows from it.

What comes after changes island by island. Sumatra reduces coconut milk for hours until rendang turns dark and almost dry. Java sweetens with palm sugar and kecap manis. Bali grinds whole spice pastes for slow-roasted betutu. The method travels; the accent never does.

Rice is the meal. Everything else is there to make each mouthful different.

— On the Indonesian table

Chapter Two

Warungs, carts and the sound of dinner

Daily eating happens at the warung — a family kitchen with a few plastic stools and a glass cabinet of the day's dishes. Nasi campur is built to order: a mound of rice ringed by fried tempeh, greens in peanut sauce, a piece of ayam goreng and a spoonful of something with chilli in it.

After dark the kaki lima carts move through the neighbourhood, each announcing itself by sound — a spoon on a bowl for bakso, a wooden knock for mie ayam. Martabak is folded on the griddle, pisang goreng lifted from the fryer, krupuk snapped over the top of everything.

The Indonesia blanket — nasi goreng, rendang, sate and es cendol drawn as one illustrated archipelago.

Chapter Three

Kitchen, wardrobe and wall

Pieces for people who grind their own bumbu, keep sambal within arm's reach, and take their kopi tubruk strong.

Poster — Jakarta

Poster — Yogyakarta

Onesie — Bandung

The Collection

The Indonesia Collection

Nasi goreng, rendang, sate ayam, gado-gado and es cendol — the spice-driven heart of the Indonesian table in one illustrated composition.

Also available on Etsy