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Black India food blanket spread across a bed in a warm, sunlit room with a monstera plant

Vol. 45 — Spice, Tiffin and the Endless Indian Table

India

From Delhi to Kerala

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Standfirst

Cumin seeds cracking in hot ghee. A dosa spread thin across a blackened griddle. Chai poured back and forth until it froths. India does not cook one cuisine — it cooks a hundred, and every one of them begins with a scent.

Chapter One

The tadka, and everything that follows

Almost every Indian dish begins the same way: fat heated until it shimmers, then whole spices dropped in — cumin, mustard seed, curry leaf, dried chilli — for the few seconds it takes them to crackle and perfume the room. Tadka is not a step in a recipe so much as a signal that cooking has begun.

What comes after it changes completely with geography. In the north, wheat, dairy and slow-simmered gravies: dal makhani, butter chicken, paratha pulled off the tawa. In the south, rice and coconut, tamarind and sesame oil: dosa, idli, sambar, Malabar fish curry bright with kokum.

There is no Indian dish. There are a thousand kitchens, and they all know each other.

— On the Indian table

Chapter Two

Street corners, tiffin tins and the thali

The Indian street is its own restaurant: vada pav wrapped in newspaper in Mumbai, pani puri cracked open and swallowed whole, kathi rolls turned on a Kolkata griddle, chaat assembled in seconds with tamarind, yoghurt and a snowfall of sev.

At midday, dabbawalas still carry home-cooked tiffin across Mumbai with almost impossible precision. And at every table, the thali does the same work in miniature — rice, dal, sabzi, pickle, curd and roti arranged in one round steel argument for balance.

The India poster — biryani, dosa, chai, jalebi and thali drawn as one illustrated composition.

Chapter Three

Kitchen, wardrobe and wall

Pieces for people who keep whole spices in the cupboard, order one more plate of chaat, and drink their chai far too hot.

Poster — Delhi

Tee — Mumbai

Tote — Chennai

The Collection

The India Collection

Biryani, masala dosa, butter chicken, chai and gulab jamun — the layered heart of the Indian table in one illustrated composition.

Also available on Etsy