Vol. 18 — Old Cars, Slow Rice, Rum
Cuba
From Havana to Trinidad
Standfirst
A country that cooks with black beans, rice, pork, citrus and improvisation. Cuba's kitchen is patient, warm and unshowy — a small paladar with three tables, a fan turning slowly, and someone playing son in the next room.
Chapter One
A patient, unshowy kitchen
Cuban cooking is a kitchen of small essentials. Black beans stewed with cumin and bay leaf, poured over white rice — moros y cristianos, the daily foundation. A pot of ropa vieja: skirt steak simmered until it falls apart, folded with onions, peppers and tomato. A slow-roast lechón for Sunday, its skin crackling, its shoulders pulled apart by hand.
There is very little showiness here. The kitchen is warm, the ingredients are honest, and the meal is meant to be eaten unhurriedly with a small glass of rum on the side.
In Havana, the meal is the excuse. The real point is the table, the music and the afternoon.
Chapter Two
Between the paladar and the plaza
A cortadito at the counter in the morning, a Cubano at lunch, a mojito at sundown, and moros y cristianos landing on the table with a scoop of tostones on the side.
Poster — Havana
Apron — Trinidad
Blanket — Vedado
The Collection
The Cuba Collection
Ropa vieja, moros y cristianos, lechón, tostones, café cubano and rum — the patient, warm spirit of Cuba, illustrated in one composition.
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