Kenya

The weekend in Kenya smells of woodsmoke. Nyama choma — goat or beef grilled slowly over open coals — is more than a dish, it is a whole social event. Friends gather, meat is cut on a wooden board, kachumbari (tomato, onion, coriander, chilli) is spooned onto the side, and ugali softens the edges of everything.

The everyday table is quieter and just as good. A Nairobi breakfast of mandazi and chai. A Mombasa evening of biryani perfumed with cardamom. A Kisumu lunch of tilapia and kuku wa kupaka in coconut sauce.